Stopējot Ķīnā - 12. Daļa - Dzīve vai Nāve

09.07.2010

No rīta atkal visi pamostamies, lēnām sagatavojamies, atvadāmies no dziedātāja mammas un dodamies ar mašīnu uz Chengdu. Man arī ir pa ceļam kādus 130km, jo nedodos uz Sichuan provinces galvaspilsētu Chengdu, bet gan uz vienu no skaistākajām Ķīnas vietām JiuZhaiGou rezervātu. Par tās skaistumu un vienkārši paradīzes izskatu, jūs varat pārliecināties fotogrāfijās...

Sākumā gan mēs mazliet pabraukuši pa ceļu, nobraucam no tā, un pa dubļu ceļu dodamies pilnīgi iekšā pļavā...Pēc brīža pamanu Nomadu vai klejotāju teltis, daudz zirgu un tālumā ganāmies kopus...mūs jau sagaida nomadi, gan mazi gan lieli un mēs esam aicināti iekšā teltī uz otrajām brokastīm. Viņi ir uzaicinājuši dziedātāju un arī mani viesos, tāpēc arī šeit esam iebraukuši. Ēdam gaļu, runājamies un dzeram tēju... Forši pavadīti mirkļi...un atkal satriecoši mīļi un patīkami cilvēki...Kas ir tik sirnīgi un smaidoši un viņu acīs ir paties prieks no tik prastas dāvanas kā dziesmu grāmatas, ko viņiem uzdāvina LaoYangs.

Tad nu ļoti jautri braukājot mēs pietuvojamies pie pilsētas, kur mums jāšķiras ar jaunajiem foršajiem draugiem. Sarunājam, ka tiksimies Chengdu pilsētā pavisam drīz un kad jau plānoju atkal doties stopēt, LaoYang(dziedātājs), man nopērk taksi līdz pašam rezervātam, par veseliem 20 Euro. Nu cenšos atteikties, bet nekā...Vēl uz atvadām uzdāvina man īstu Tibetas kostīmu...Atvadāmies un es ar taksi dodos uz rezervātu..
Plkst.: 15.00 es esmu pie rezervāta ieejas - tagad jātiek iekšā bez biļetes, jo kā runāju, ceļoju bez naudas. Jo esmu sapratis kā tā ir daudz interesantāk un satiec daudz vairāk satriecošu cilvēku...Tad nu izmantojot profesionālu stopētāju viltības sarunāju visu ar tūristu ofisu un pat pēc rezervāta slēgšanas esmu iekšā...

Noķeru arī autobusu, kas arī mani pa velti ieved iekšā rezervātā...Līdz rezervāta slēgšanai ir vēl 3 stundas, bet tūristiem viņš slēdzas 15.00, bet mani ielaida pēc slēgšanas...Tad nu jau braucot autobusā saprotu, cik satriecoši skaista ir šī vieta..ūdenskritumu, nepārstās krāsas, meži...daba ir vienkārši neaprakstāma...
Izeju vienā no autobusa pieturām un apskatu ūdenskritumu. Tad dodos tālāk un sāku mērot ceļu ar kājām pa rezervātu, pa taciņām... Man paliek aptuveni 60min, lai tiktu no rezervāta ārā, jo pēc slēgšanas ir jāiet ārā un palikt parka teritorijā ir aizliegts. Vēlāk es saprotu, ka nedrīkst ne tikai tāpēc, lai nepiesārņotu dabu visādi palikt gribētāji, bet arī tāpēc, ka naktī šī teritorija paliek par ļoti bīstamu vietu cilvēkam, bet par to vēlāk...

Es baudu dabu, un pastaigājos, dodoties arvien dziļāk un dziļāk parka teritorijā. Kad paliek kādas 20min līdz slēgšanai, viens sargs mani sauc, lai dodos uz pēdējo autobusu, bet es izliekos neko nesaprotam un vien atbildu, ka tūlīt iešu...Sargs nomierinās, bet es dodos nost no taciņas, un dodos mežā...
Šī diena ir briesmīga, lietus un lietus...viss ir slapjš un mežā visi ceļi ir slapji un es pats jau esmu kļuvis ļoti slapjš no š pretīga lietus...Visa soma slapja, apģērbs slapjš, arī kurpes un kājas ir slapjas un vēsas... Uzkāpis kalnā es vienkārši apsēžos, lai nogaidītu tumsu un tad mierīgi atrast vietu, kur uzcelt telti. Baidos, ka varbūt kamēr gaišs mani vēl var pamanīt kāds no rezervāta darbiniekiem...nejūtu nekādus draudus vai bīstamību, apkārt ir kluss, tikai čivina putni...
Kad iestājas krēsla es dodos lejā no kalna, biezajā zālē, lai atrastu kādu skaistu vietiņu manai teltij...esmu diezgan tālu no cilvēku teritorijas un diezgan tuvu dzīvnieku teritorijai jeb, mežam...šobrīd atrodos pļavā, kas ir tieši blakus mežam un kalnainai teritorijai...Un te pēkšņi es dzirdu, ko šausminošu, ko tādu, kas liek sirdij sisties tik strauji, kā nekad agrāk...tas ir īsta plēsīga dzīvnieka rēciens, kādu 200m attālumā. Es sastingstu...mana elpa kļūst tik lēna cik vien var, es cenšos neeksistēt, saplūst pilnībā ar dabu...ar dabas klusumu...Un vēl es domāju, kāpēc viss bija tik kluss, it kā sastindzis...tagad es to sapratu...daba apstājās, kāda plēsīga dzīvnieka klātbūtnē (kā vēlāk uzzinu, tas varēja būt tikai sniega leopards, jo tieši viņi dzīvo šajā parkā). Es sastingstu un sataustu savu uzticīgo nazi, ko vienmēr nesāju līdzi šādos trakos ceļojumos. Es neatdošu nevienam savu dzīvību. Šim dzīvniekam būs jācīnās, lai to paņemtu...Ja man jāmirst te, es miršu skaisti un ar cīņu, es nepadošos...Es esmu sastindzis, vēnās pulsē asinis...katra mana maņa ir 1000 reizes stiprāka...rokās ir saspiests nazis...es esmu gatavs...šīs dažas sekundes ir kā mūžība...un te es atkal dzirdu šī noslēpumaina cilvēka rēkoņu, jau pavisam tuvu...es jūtu tā klātbūtni...un šajās sekundēs, es saprotu, kas man jādara...es saprotu, ka viņš negrib uzbrukt, bet es esmu viņa teritorijā...nezinu kā es to saprotu, vai nu tādēļ, ka man ir pieredze, vai nu tādēļ, ka šī ir kāda nemanāma saruna, bez vārdiem starp mani un dzīvnieku, un es lēnām un pavisam klusi sāku doties atmuguriski atpakaļ...dzīvnieks klusē, bet es jūtu viņu pavisam netālu mežā, slēpjamies garajā zālē...es dodos aizvien tālāk un tālāk...rēkoņa vairs neseko...tas nozīmē vai nu to, ka es esmu drošībā vai nu to, ka viņš gatavojas pēdējām uzbrukumam...bet kad es jau esmu pie koka taciņas, cilvēka veidojuma, es saprotu, ka esmu drošībā, jo šī jau ir mana teritorija, es esmu izlauzies no leoparda valstības, savējā. Es vairs viņam netraucēju....es pasakos Dievam par to, ka esmu palicis dzīvs, un par to, ka es spēju izbaudīt šo mirkli;....Tagad es izbaudu visu to sajūtu baudu, ko ieguvu...Tas mirklis viens uz viens ar dzīvnieku un mani un dabu bija, kas neatkārtojams...bet man vēl jāpavada te vesela nakts...es atrodu ideālu vietu, kur veidot telti...no visām pusēm norobežotu atpūtas vietu ar soliņiem un koka grīdu...īstākā cilvēka teritorija...es izveidoju telti te..Gulēt nav patīkami, jo ir ļoti cieti, lietus līst kā no sapņiem...es ietinos guļammaisā un arī Tibetas halātā, ko man uzdāvināja, uzvelku vienīgo sauso palikušo T-kreklu un džemperi un dodos gulēt... Pirms tam vienojoties klusumā ar dabu par to, ka mēs viens otram neuzbruksim...

Kā paiet nakts un kas mani gaida rīt, atkal citos stāstos...

Stopējot Ķīnā - 11. Daļa - Mazais ciemats

Pēc vakardienas satriecošās vakara sarunas par Tibetu, Tibetas reliģiju un galvenokārt Tibetiešu sapņiem par brīvību es ļoti labi izguļos un agrāk par visiem pārējiem esmu augšā un dodos laukā. Visi no maniem mašīnas draugiem vēl guļ, bet, protams, ka dziedātāja (dziedātāju sauc LaoYang), mamma jau neguļ, kā jau īsta norūdīta sieva viņa jau rosās par virtuvi gatavojot sviestu no tikko izslaukta jaka piena

Ieraudot mani sauc mani mazgāties, un kā jau īstos laukos mazgājos laukā. Rīts ir ļoti dzestrs un pat varētu teikt auksts. Bet nu jāmazgājas netīrs taču nestaigāsi...tad nu turpat laukā ielejot no akas ūdeni bļodiņā es sāku mazgāties...apkārt vēl ir tāda lieka dūmaka, kas visu iesedz skaistā gaismā. Ūdens ir vienkārši satriecoši auksts bet tik patīkams tajā pat laikā... Uzreiz esi kā no jauna pamodies. Un pirmie saules stari vēl tevi arī tik forši sasilda.

Pēc brīža pamostas arī mani draugi un mēs trīs vīri dodamies ceļā paēst brokastis. Ilgi meklējam braucot cauri šim mazajam ciematiņam, kurš pat nav uz kartes...Rīts ir satriecošs šajos mazajos dubļu ceļos, sīkie ar grāmatām dodas kaut kur mācīties, uz ielas tiek mazgāta veļa, mūki dodas uz templi vai uz veikalu pēc pirkumiem, večuki sēž gar ceļu un pīpē savas pīpes, kāds mazs puišelis spēlējas ar spēļu mašīnu, kāds ar akmentiņiem vai stikla lauskām. Bet ziniet, kas ir viss pārsteidzošākais un savādāks no visiem mums...Viņi visi ir tik laimīgi un smaidīgi...Nekad neesmu redzējis tādu laimi ne tikai uz sejas, bet dvēselē...

Pēc brīža atrodam arī ēdnīcu. Sātīgi paēdam un dodamies mazgāt mašīnu... Draudzīgi visi kopā to nomazgājam...puišelis, kas palīdz atgādina man pašam mani, kad es biju gadus 12 vecs un skatījos pa logu mašīnai tās salonu tā jau tagad reti kad dara

Pēc tam atkal uz mājām, kur pavadām foršās sarunās, tad vēl pa dienu dodamies uz vēl vienu ciematiņu netālu satikties ar citiem Tibetiešiem, bet dienas kulminācija ir vakarā - Basketbola spēle. Protams, ja jau ciemā ir ieradies slavens mūziķis, kas te piedzimis un vēl ārzemnieks tad taču ir jāveido spēle....tad nu sanāk visi, sadalāmies 5 komandās un spēle sākas...Sākumā gan man neveicas un es pieviļu savus komandas spēlētājus (nekad neesmu mīlējis basketbolu ), bet uz 3. spēli es iespēlējos un tad nu gan mums aiziet spēle, mēs esam neuzvarami, vinnējam vienus pēc otriem, protams pēc 4 uzvarētām spēlēm mēs zaudējam jo vienkārši esam ļoti noguruši, bet tad atkal sākas uzvaru sērija...Kļūstu par spēļu zvaigzni

Vakarā vēl svinīga fotografēšanās un ceļš mājup, un vēl foto sesija īstā Tibetiešu nacionālajā tērpā un tad vēl viens satriecošs vakars kopā, senā lauku mājiņā.

Rīt mans ceļš vedīs uz skaistāko Ķīnas rezervātu, kur kā vēlāk uzzināšu dzīvo leopardi, lāči utt. Un es tur pavadīšu nakti...bet tas atkal citos stāstos

Auto Stop around China - Part 11 - Simple day in small Tibetan village

08.07.2010

After amazing evening in old house, I have great dream and wake up early strong and ready for new day. I go outside, all of my friends are still sleeping. But the mother of singer (by the way his name is LaoYang) of course is not sleeping anymore as real country side woman. She already got a mil from a cow and is making a butter out of it in the kitchen...She notices that I woke up and gives me a basin for morning show. Morning shower or bath looks like that. You have a soap and basin, you take it and go outside...You get the water from well, that is icy cold and you start to watch yourself...Some neighbours are outside and watching how I wash...I am the only foreigner who has even been in this village, so of course they are interested.

It is so cold, as water is burning your skin, but the same time so refreshing and so healthy...And you wake up the same moment...

I finish my bath and also my friends have woken. And we with LaoYang and his producer go out to have a breakfast. We drive through small town, that is even not shown on the map...Now in the morning it looks different, many people on the street, they are washing their clothes, or eating, or some small kids are playing with stones or color glass from bottles of beer. And what is the most amazing they all are so happy and smile...people that are poor, that live a simple life, but they are real happy. This is so amazing to see them so happy. This is what we need to learn from them :) You see that they are happy not only on the face but also in their soul.

After some time we find a place where we will have a breakfast... after great breakfast we go to wash a car, and here I meet a 12 years old boy, who just like me looks in childhood, looks through the window in the car to check the design :)

After we again go back home, have some nice conversations and then we get ready for the Basketball competition. All players from the village gather as not every day they see a famous Tibetan singer that was born in this town and have a lot of old friends and also the foreigner :) it is me :)

So everyone comes to play or see the game...We separate in 5 teams and the game begins. At the beginning I don't play good, (never like basketball ), but after game number 3 I really get well and start playing like a basketball star and we start to win one game after another. We become unbeatable...Only when we play some 4 games in the row we get tired and loose...But then again win, win, win, win, win... I become a star of this basketball game. after we make a picture together, like a Star Team.

On the way back I have a photo session in real Tibetan man clothes.

Tomorrow my way will lead to one of the most beautiful places in China, where lives leopard, bear and other wild creatures and I will spend the time together with them. But today a great conversation and nice dreams...

Auto Stop around China - Part 10 - Reflection time

07.07.2010

So with the car we move into small Tibetan village...Streets are really narrow, small houses, some new but the most are really old. It is already dark, and there are almost no people on the streets. It is a great feeling now, all windows of the car is open, there is a great music, and in the air is amazing fresh feeling and small of the romantic night, last sun is still warming the feeling around. It feels that you have entered the past, past times...

We arrive at a small old house from wood and enter it...I am greeted by old lady, that is the mom of the driver, father is not here as i get to know later they are divorced.

After greeting I get the best place in the house, next to fireplace. Now i can look around and see the house. All house is made from wood and you know what? There is no electricity today, so we light the candles. This old house, some spider web, amazing people around, smell of Tibetan tea and color of candles...This is something amazing, something so romantic and great feeling for heart. There are pictures of holy persons around and in the main place picture of DalaiLama, who is forbidden in China, and only for this one picture you can get many troubles.

We have a dinner in candle light, and then I get to know that my driver is actually a very famous Tibetan singer and he is exactly going from concert now to visit his mother and then after he is moving to his home city Chengdu. So I am asking him to sing some songs for me... And he starts with small, Tibetan guitar...Now this old and small house is full of sounds of Tibetan music and voice of great person. Eyes of people sparkle in candle light, that are sitting all shoulder to shoulder next to fireplace...We drink tasty Tibetan tea and enjoy the music... This is something that You will never get in any tourist package...This is something that you can experience only if you are brave enough to get off the beaten path and Live on the edge...

After we go to sleep and have amazing conversation about Tibet (it is confidential for written in blog but if you are interested send me message - pavelgumennikov@gmail.com); It was a really amazing conversation about Tibet and everything around it.

Auto Stop around China - Part 9 - They want to eat me...

07.07.2010

I wake up in the night because I hear some sound of animal just next to my tent. He is breathing just next to my tent...I am silently searching for my knife, that I carry with me, in case someone will try to hurt me :D D: because I am quite often in the wild. I find my knife, and now just listen. My heart is booming...i am listening...I hear sound of steps and the animal feels real big, he is only half a meter or less next to my tent...I hear his breathing...He starts again to breathe even louder...I am ready to make a hit with knife if it will be needed..Then again steps..and now animal stands so I can see his shadow on my tent, because the moon this night is real bright...I am ready to hit him, to kill him...But actually it is only a stupid cow :D :D :D that is disturbing me to sleep. I scream at it, as I am real angry and she runs away :D :D Stupid cow...I go to sleep again

in the morning I meet with monk family, we have a great breakfast and then we go to see an amazing morning view...It is just great, fantastic...Imagine amazing morning clouds, that are hanging really low between mountains and lake...Everything reflects like in a mirror...The air is so fresh and clean...and silence of nature is all around me...

It feels that you have born again.

But we need to go again further. We sit down in a car and start our drive to Aba city, where is this region biggest temple. We really soon arrive there, say goodbye to my friends, check the city a little and then again go back on the road to catch a ride...Today I am going to Natural Park, that is counted as the most beautiful in China, called JiuZhaiGou.

First car takes me some 10km more far away. On this road there are almost no cars...Then I see a donkey with a carriage and i think i could try to hitchhike it :D: D but he turns off the road :)

No cars already for 10min...But I am not sad, I am walking the road, there are some Tibetan farmers who work on the field. They smile and greet me.

And after some moment I see a Jeep driving towards me, and they stop. It is a Chinese family who are real travellers and who love to travel and I start a journey with them. They are a little afraid to drive with me because i look really scary :D :D But they believe me that I am a good person and we start a journey. With them I drive for 100km.

We chat and have a great time, they also give me the main present - water. The time runs fast, and I am again on the road, and see that there is a car approaching but I need to run to the needed road to catch it, and I am really happy to catch a ride the same moment.

And again 100km more by the road. After I am again on another road...The weather is already real later it is around 6pm, that gives me around 2 hours only for future hitchhiking. The road in this road is horrible...just sand and one line in each way. Somehow I catch one more ride with drunk person in back seat...he tells me Hello and that he is Chinese man :D :D Ye it is hard to understand that he is Chinese :D :D After some time I start to get bored of him talking, and I decide to get out...

Again no cars, but then somehow i catch one more..Again some stupid car with stupid drivers...I say that I don't have the money that is why I travel b hitchhiking...and the driver all the time laughs like stupid...But I know how to talk with Chinese people...and after few minutes he understand that he is stupid and who is smart :D :D but I don't like them so I get out of car, because I see some hotel, so i decide for one night to stay in a hotel. As everywhere in Tibet also here are full of soldiers with machine guns...But I know psychology so I just wave to them and smile and they are friendly to me...And it appears there is no space in hotel...Today is some stupid day that is not really lucky...i again go on the road, and I am lucky I catch a ride again, for some 60km... They are nice Tibetan people who don't ask me money even they business is to transport people... I am getting happier as they are real fun...

At the end stop I am asking where could I stay but there is no place where to do it here...so I am left on the sand road...but I see a monk temple just next to it, so I go to check it out...But then I see one more car..and somehow I feel I need to try...It stops...and they say jump in, come to visit us. That was like a voice from inside stop this car, it will be great adventure...And it really came out great...We go inside this small village that have only 1000 people living in...And adventures start here again.... But about this in next part :)

Auto Stop around China - Part 8 - In haromny with Nature

06.07.2010

I open my eyes because hear some voices that are coming towards me. Or just my instincts tell me that someone is coming. Don't really know. I slowly start to wake up, and first what I see dew on my tent. Slowly I wake up and get out of the tent. and really probably they were my instincts that told me that someone is coming. There are 3 monks that are coming towards me. I am still not coming out of the tent, because it is real cold :D I just wash my face in the dew of the grass, and breath amazingly fresh, clean and so energising air that can be found only in mountains on 4000m high. The morning have just begun it is 5.00 am. This morning is amazing, you look left and you see snowy and high mountains around which you will conquer today, you look right and see amazing lake next to you. I look left again and get more and more amaze with a powerful mountains, powerful waterfall that is loudly roaring, that change in icy rivers and later flows in the lake. Finally monks are next to me. We say good morning each to other, they follow around the holy lake and mountain as pilgrims. We make some photos together and then say goodbye and wish good luck.

I start slowly to wake up and collect my things to conquer the mountain. But before I go to the mountain, I need to sign an agreement with it. So first I sit down and just in silent look on the mountain at this moment we have a silent conversation that would understand only both of us. We talk about letting me conquer him, letting me climb, letting me to be able to be strong as strong and powerful as this mountain is. And i am not anymore conquering him, I am in a harmony with everything around. We let each other to become stronger, This moment is not explainable it is something that paralyse you in a beautiful silence in the wild, in the nature...where is only nature , there is no individuality of you...you are not anymore you, you are just part of the one of the nature.

After this conversation and finding harmony in myself and nature around I start a climb. It seems that it is really close, but it is unbelievably hard and it is really far away... Today I need to cross a 3really deep rivers that all have so icy water that it almost paralyse your muscles. The water is so cold that after few second you feel that half of your body is made of ice. The bad with each moment is killing me more and more, as it is really heavy. You fall down to have a rest and then you just can't stand up, all your muscles ace, your body tells you, don't go, are you crazy, you can't do it, you are dead. But the hardest and most powerful muscle in body of a man is his mind...And when I can't do anything anymore, I tell myself stand up, I tell myself to continue, through pain. because I made a promise to myself, I made a promise to nature...And I know I can do it. There is no pain there is only the way and your aim that you need to fulfill. it is the fight not with nature, it is the fight with yourself. And You scream to yourself, stand up...you are the winner...and your mind puts your body up and make you stronger, it makes your fight again. i climb higher and higher...my head is aching as the altitude is already around 4500. But I don't notice it I just go up. I climb next to waterfall, water drops are falling on my skin and burn like fire with coldness but after a second it refreshes you. Pain is a pleasure here. As higher you climb as more snow you see around, more danger, as rocks get slipper. But I don't stop, You are hypnotized, you just continue your journey, higher and higher. There is no way back only up, only up. And then there is the feeling that I always have, when I risk when I do something dangerous. I feel that someone is looking on me, someone is protecting me, and that is why I am not afraid of anything. I know that someone is protecting me...And i feel his help always when it is hard and difficult. There are only 2-3m left. And you did it finally. You sit down and look around. This is amazing feeling, amazing feeling that you can't explain. i enjoy the view, but the view enjoys only my eyes..because my mind and my heart feels something else. Now you are in total harmony with you and with nature. You are in harmony with mountain, with snow that makes your way so dangerous, with waterfall, with rocks and all it together... You don't feel the pain of your muscles, of your head that hearts, you don't feel anything negative...you just smile and enjoy. now everything else seems so small, after this hard experience. You don't hear anything around...you are like in a vacuum where nothing comes in...

And then starts the way back...You are like in some automatic feeling now. You are not afraid of anything, you cross the swamp so easy, sometimes you get in so deep that you almost can't take your legs out, and you start to think you will stay here, but the some miracle happens and you are again out. And you still go go go... All your legs are covered with blood, but you are happy as happy as a person could be...

After 12 hour walk i return to the place I was yesterday. Only I need to cross a really swift river and around 1 m deep and 10 m wide...but what can you do...i need to cross it...Was real fun.

After few moments I am gain at the mountain where yesterday I was fighting with monks. Now i need to find a place where I will sleep today. And first I go to nice monk family to ask for some water to drink, as all of mine is finished. They give me tasty Tibetan tea, it is amazing, it cures your pain. I look horribly now, all dirty, covered with blood...but they are not afraid, and offer me to stay for dinner. and after i even make a tent next to them, and even arrange my way out of this place to next city I am going.

it is getting dark fast so we are going to sleep...Night will be fun, someone will try to eat me :) But about that next time ;)

Auto Stop Around China - Part 7 - Fighting with monks

05.07.2010.

I wake up early in the morning and my friends say goodbye to me. One of them take me to the bus station as I am planning to arrange my trip to next city jigzhi,that will take me to holly mountain - Nyenbo Yurtse. I am planning to make it again for free.

I wave to my friend and make myself comfortable at back seat. After few hours, passing beautiful landscapes, temples in a middle of nowhere and monks that are smiling to you on the road I arrive at a small town on Jigzhi. All around I see yaks(cows that are here), differently dressed people and kids playing with different stones on the side walk. and these small stones make them so happy. They don't need expensive toys or clothes. They enjoy playing with what they have and enjoying each other. It is enough with a little so they have fun and joy and happiness in their eyes....

When I was passing the temple in the bus, all monks were smiling to me. Probably yellow hair attracts attention when he looks out of the open window.

This is how I arrived at Jigzhi city. The day is real hot, it is already 35 degrees Celsius. And I start to find my way towards Nyenbo Yurtse holy mountain. After walking for 4km, I haven't seen any car on the road, and there are still some 30km till the mountain. A little desperate, but the nature is really beautiful and all around cows and big, lonely dogs, that don't touch me, probably I am in harmony with nature already. And when I almost got real sad, the car is passing by. I am stopping it but it don't stop...But then after some 200m it stops, and I run, and we go :) :) After some time we arrive at the entrance of Nyenbo Yurtse natural park. Chinese drivers give me a gift of water bottle that I wanted so much.

As everywhere in China also here I see a ticket office. And I am going inside. The ticket cost 15 Euro. I am not even planning to pay such money to look on nature and climb the mountain. I step inside the shop, that is also a ticket office. Start to talk with sales man, and we get friendly, even negotiate so he sells me water cheaper :) and then also negotiate that he let's me in for free.

So I am in, but till mountain I still need to walk for 3km. And i am lucky a small bus is going there, so I just stop him and go with it to mountain. And here is one more ticket office, but I am behind dark windows of a bus, so no one checks me :)

And here i see something really amazing. Lake, moutanins, and not far away I see mountain covered with snow, 5000m high that I will conquer. it looks now real close, but ..but about but later... There are almost no tourists around that makes this place magic feeling... In air I can feel amazing silence and piece... I am going closer to lake, there are some Chinese tourists making photos, but at the lake I see a large group of monks and they are carrying something into the water. That makes me interesting and i am getting closer to them. Everything around dazzles me...Green grass, yellow flowers, it is like the most beautiful Arab carpet, that is made by the best master. I arrive at the lake and see that monks are caring big bags of something into the middle of the holy lake.

I sit and watch them. But i also want to join them, so I take off my clothes and jump in and start to help them...They are all excited that I also help them to do it. As i get to know later in those bags is solt, rice, and holy texts, that is a treat for spirits of earth, air, and others... I helped to carry bags an enjoyed so cold water of mountain lake... I again put on my clothes and then have an invitation for picnic with monks, and have a gift small papers with mantras...So I follow monks to have a great picnic. I am again a honoured guest and I sit next to Lama. With a Lama from city of Aba... All around are sitting Aba monks. We are eating different tasty things and drinking Tibetan tea and also Coca-Cola :))) After eating we start sport activities.. Monks starting to fight with each other, and I also want to join...And of course i get the most heavy and fat monk :D :D everyone have fun...but i don't retreat I start the fight and win, as the monk stops the fight :) he is to tired :D :D I felt like a super fighter as all Chinese who are tourists here at this moment didn't stop to shoot photos with me :)))) imagine you are the first foreigner that was sitting like that between these monks and even participating in their activities. You talk with them, eat with them, play with them...it is amazing... And sucj a nature around... and then after fighting amazing music starts to play around you and songs are singed...and after that one more activity...you need to win in another sport activity...you can see it in pictures i don't know how to call it in English :D :D and here I again have the same monk to fight, and this time he wins :D :D

After that monks start to pack their bags as they need to leave, and I also need to leave to make my first base camp and it is already 4pm so I have around 4 hours to make a first base camp at the bottom of the mountain before the darkness comes. It seams it will be easy as the mountain seems real close... The way leads around the lake towards the mountain. But to reach it, you need to fight a really sharp grass, and small trees that are growing here. When I pass the lake i see that in front of me is one more lake to reach a mountain... Already 3 hours have passed so i have around an hour to reach the mountain and it seems real hard...And my bag is really heavy now as I have a lot of water in it for 2 days. But I am fighting...

And after one hour I finally reach the other side of the second lake. And here starts the marsh that is really dangerous. Sometimes my legs are inside till my hips and other is on the land. Sometimes i feel a little scared that i will not make it out...but when your body tells you it is dead your mind is the one that tells you to stop crying and keep moving...this is the most hardest and powerful muscle in your body. And when I am finally at the place where I could place my tent, I see a large river, with icy cold water from the mountain and really deep, till hips or even deeper...But what can I do, i am already almost dead so I am just jumping in, and finally I am at the normal ground with grass where i can put my tent... I am just next to the mountain, I am all wet, so I just take all the clothes off and make a tent...I am totally in the wild, no one around me for around 10km or even more...I wake up in the middle of the night in the tent because of strange sound of animals around...Look outside but there is no one and then I look up. This is something amazing...it seems that the sky have only stars, no sky at all, and the sky is so low, as you can almost touch it... they all shine and sparkle like beautiful eyes of the girl :) .I get out of the tent and just lay on the grass...it is such a soft carpet and i just enjoy th beautiful pieace of art in the sky... After some time i get back in tent and have a great nap...